Day 20: Approaching Alichur

Today has been a sobering day. I’ve never felt so much despair: being in the middle of nowhere, utterly dependent on a car that won’t run properly, and miles from anywhere. Sleep last night was impossible, though our host was kind enough to provide us with blankets so we wouldn’t be cold. After a breakfast…

Day 19: Languishing in Langar

2:41pm We’re currently stranded in the small village of Langar along the Wakhan Valley. Our rear suspension is broken.

Day 18: Ishkashim, the edge of the world

We woke up this morning in Kalaikhum, having slept reasonably well. However, we both struggled with stomach issues. Perhaps it was the water the salad from last night was washed in. After a simple breakfast of eggs, bread and coffee on the terrace right above a mountain stream, we packed up and headed out. The…